ChicagoCulinarian

Mercat a la Planxa’s chef went out with a bang. Or should we say, a pig.

Just after the Spanish-Catalan restaurant’s third anniversary, pork-centered dinner a couple weeks ago, news broke that Chef de Cuisine Michael Fiorello (under Exec Chef and Iron Chef America Jose Garces) will be leaving the post he’s held since 2008 to become director of culinary for Garces Restaurant Group in Philadelphia. Taking over for Fiorello is Mercat’s Sous Chef Cory Morris, a Salt Lake City native who’s had stints serving as executive chef for a few restaurants out west.

For the anniversary dinner, Fiorello and Garces came up with a seven-course, all-pork menu, which culminated in a “carve-off” with the two chefs hacking away whole hog on a makeshift stage at the front of the restaurant, right in front of the dramatic, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Michigan Avenue South. Though it was hardly a contest, the separate carving stations, huge cleavers and whole smoked pig heads resting atop wooden chopping boards looked like a scene from Iron Chef, which is fitting considering Garces continues to defend that title.

We started off with a super soft Serrano ham and earthy fig salad layered on baby spinach with toasty spiced almonds and a light sherry vinaigrette. That was followed by a traditional potato Spanish omelet and chunky and huge, thick-cut bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with almonds. Next up, beef short ribs peppered with horseradish, parmesan and smoky bacon, of course, along with garlicky shrimp cooked in traditional Mercat style: a la planxa (super hot, flat top grill for a nice sear).

And finally, the finale. A whole roasted suckling pig that we watched dissected by the chefs moments early: succulent and buttery, but mild, chunks of meat layered with crispy, crackling skin. One only needs a good beer alongside it.

It was a glorious celebration of food and drink as it should be – Mercat opened just before the recession and managed not only to survive it, but also carry on rather successfully. Cheers.