ChicagoCulinarian

Oaxacan raja tacos seamlessly blend together the smoky greenness of roasted poblano peppers with the richness of Mexican crema and tang from crumbled queso fresco, all wrapped up in a homemade, light corn tortilla.

Try a variation of them at Taco Joint, the latest venture by the Zocalo people, in the former Halsted Street Minnies space, which also housed the short-lived Masu Izakaya. Their version adds a black bean spread and creamy, tomatillo salsa topper, a step up from plain crema, and the light browning from the flat-top grill made it seem – in a good way – like an non-breaded, inside out chile relleno cut into thin slices (“raja” means slices in Spanish). Though there wasn’t a nice, older woman rolling out masa dough for tortillas like you might find in Oaxaca, the place says they make their own, and it’s believable thanks to the airy popcorn taste and slight chew.

While the lineup of tacos here certainly isn’t the “real deal” (this coming from a La Pasadita loyalist), and the new eatery says full-service Mexican restaurant versus taco/burrito “joint,” the place is a good standby for small, simple tacos (ala Mexico City), with a little more refinement and creativity. They also pair well with the decent selection of tequilas, from pure blancos to whiskey-like anejos and smoky mezcals, all prominently displayed in lighted, dark wooden shelves along the bar-back. Our friendly bartender informed us that selection would continue to grow as Taco Joint introduces tequila flights and tasting events in the weeks to come.

Before the tacos come out, start off with the chunky guacamole – made with buttery Mexican Haas avocados and kicked up by bits of Serrano – scoopable with a trio of refreshingly not-greasy terra cotta-style chips, including traditional tortilla, semi-sweet plantain, and earthy malanga (a woodsier-tasting, yucca-like root vegetable).

Carnitas tacos, made with duck confit versus pork, came unexpectedly juicy with an ancho chile salsa and pickled red onion. Another nice option – the ceviche taco – chunks of tender scallop and shrimp in an – again, non-greasy – crispy shell with avocado and red cabbage slaw.